Muhammad Shah's Tomb - A Sayyid Era Monument

Delhi has been ruled over by several dynasties. Some short-lived and some survived long enough to create history. Most of these dynasties came from outside, ruled here, lived here, and left their relics, be it small or large. While Mughals were prominent for a long time in Delhi’s history, there were several other dynasties which came, fought, and captured the city. They built their monuments, tombs and left them for us. While I talk a walk across the city on any weekend or any free day, I often get surprised to see its cultural heritage. When I first visited Lodhi Gardens, I quickly understood it had something to do with the Lodhis as the garden had tombs and other monuments. However, this area also has a monument that doesn’t belong to Lodhis (including some others). Muhammad Shah’s tomb lies in a corner of the garden.

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When I started reading more about history, I got to know about Sayyids, which I studied back in history textbooks of high school. Lodhis were powerful and survived longer than Sayyids. Sayyids who didn’t survive for long had limited sources and were unable to build opulent monuments like other dynasties who left behind majestic monuments which make us astonish today.

History behind Muhammad Shah’s Tomb

I have studied history till 10th class only and then I opted for biology. However, I still remember a lot which I studied in history till 10th class. Though over time, my grasp over that knowledge got loosened. When I heard the name ‘Sayyid Dynasty’, it bought back some sketchy information, whatever the history teacher taught. Muhammad Shah’s tomb triggered those memories and I remember something.

The tomb of Muhammad Shah is said to have been built in 1451. His son Alam Shah commissioned its construction. Muhammad Shah was a Sayyid ruler who ruled in Delhi from 1434 to 1443. Before him, his uncle Mubarak Shah had occupied the throne. Lodhi kings captured Delhi from him and his son (Alam Shah) and that ended the time of the Sayyid dynasty in Delhi. Sayyids kings claimed themselves to be descendants of Prophet Muhammad. Sayyids ruled Delhi from 1414 to 51. They were the successors of the Tughlaq dynasty. Finally, Lodhis displaced them.

Khizr Khan ruled Delhi as the first Sayyid king from 1414 to 1421. The Sayyids rulers miserably failed to stand against other powerful rulers such as Khokars of Northwest and Shaqri Sultans of East. Khizr was succeeded by Mubarak Khan who is said to have built some influence, but he was assassinated in 1434. He was succeeded by Muhammad Shah and then came Alam Shah, but they were not so powerful and failed at every front. Alam Shah left Delhi in 1448 for Badaun. Bahlul Lodhi, after three years, who was ruling Punjab at that time, captured Delhi and that’s how Lodhis came into existence.

Architecture & Design of Muhammad Shah Sayyid’s Tomb

While I was reading about the tomb of Muhammad Shah on the internet, I came across an article which was titled ‘The Poor King’s Tomb’.

Muhammad Shah’s tomb of Lodhi Garden is one of very few monumental remains of the Sayyid dynasty. The tomb represents a typical architectural style of that era. The tomb is based on an octagonal base (which you will find in several other tombs, particularly in Lodhi monuments). Every corner is supposed by buttresses. The tomb has corbelled doorways. 8 arched pavilions (chhatris) at the top give a striking feature of this tomb. Each one of them has a lotus finial on the top. The plaster has a highly intricately finish with mesmerizing decoration.

The octagonal faces have a width of around 10 m which is equal to the height, including the base and ornamental pinnacles. These octagonal faces have chhajja, 3 arched openings. These arched openings overhang the eaves. Stone corbels support these arched openings. The tomb is entered through the Southern end. There are lentil beam entrances on all 8 sides of the tomb. The ceiling of the monument, just like any other tomb, is nicely decorated, painted with calligraphic motifs, stucco carvings with circular designs (arabesques).

The tomb has a verandah which measures around 15 meters in diameter. The central chamber of the tomb is surrounded by it. There are a total of 8 graves; the central one of them belongs to Muhammad Shah and the rest belongs to his family. The pathway that leads to the main entrance of the tomb has palm trees on both sides. Flowering plants and other decorative, shrubs, greens, etc. add more to the beauty around this monument.

I missed this tomb in my previous visits since it is located a little away in the corner. It was in 2018, that I got to explore this beauty. This tomb is located near Bada Gumbad. If one enters from the Lodhi Road side, one may notice this monument, covered by giant trees. This tomb is probably one of the most significant and big monuments built by the Sayyid dynasty that is still standing. Also, Muhammad Shah’s tomb is the oldest monument of Lodhi Garden.

This tomb is said to be a refined version of Mubarak Shah’s tomb which is built in Kotla Muhabarpur. At the very first moment when I saw Muhammad Shah’s tomb, the architecture suddenly reminded me of Isa Khan’s Tomb which is located in Humayun’s tomb complex. It almost has the same architecture. Though I may be wrong, let me know in the comments what you think.

How to reach Muhammad Shah’s tomb at Lodhi Garden?

The easiest way to reach Muhammad Shah’s tomb at Lodhi Garden is via metro. The nearest metro station to the tomb of Muhammad Shah is Jor Bagh Metro Station on the Yellow Line of DMCR. From there, one has to take an autorickshaw or book a cab/bike online. There is no entry ticket for the monument. You don’t have to pay for photography too. The garden remains packed during the early hours of the day and the evening when people come here for a routine walk, picnic, hang out, etc. You will find lots of people shooting videos, photoshoots, doing yoga, etc.